Perfect-gloss workflow

• 1) Controlled environmentShade/indoors, 15–30 °C surface temp, RH <70%, and surface temp at least 3 °C above dew point.
• Pre-rinse with softened water to minimize spotting.

2) Decon & prep

1. Two-bucket wash with pH-neutral shampoo.
2. Chemical decon (if needed): remove mineral/salt and iron fallout.
3. Mechanical decon: clay/decon mitt with lube until the surface feels glassy.
4. Dry with plush microfibers; blow out seams.
5. Mask edges, vents, hardware, and thin edges/strakes.

Pro tip: Log paint thickness. If topcoat is <90–110 µm in spots, avoid aggressive sanding/rotary there.
3) Paint correction (defect removal)
Start least-aggressive first and test a 40×40 cm section.
Wet-sand only when necessary (orange peel/etched defects):

• 1500 → 2000 → 2500 → 3000 (DA on an interface pad, light pressure, straight passes).
• Keep the surface uniformly hazed—no shiny dots (missed low spots).

Compounding:

• Cutting pad (wool or microfiber) + heavy cut compound.
• Rotary: 1000–1400 rpm (slow arm speed) or DA: 3000–4800 OPM.
• Work until defects are ~90–95% gone; don’t chase ghosts on thin edges.

Polishing:

• Medium foam + polish to clear compounding haze.
• Finishing foam + jeweling polish for max clarity.
• DA preferred for a swirl-free finish; wipe residues with fresh towels.

4) Finish prep (panel wipe)

• Use 10–20% IPA or dedicated panel wipe to remove oils.
• Inspect under cross-lighting; correct micro-marring before protection.

5) Protection (gloss lock-in)

• Ceramic coating (12–36 mo systems):

Apply thin, even cross-hatch; level within the product’s flash window.
Initial cure: keep dry 12–24 h; avoid wash 5–7 days.

• Polymer sealant (3–6 mo):

Faster turnarounds; stack 2 coats 12–24 h apart for extra depth.
Speeds, pads & pressure at a glance

• DA correction: 3000–4800 OPM, moderate pressure (pad fully rotating), slow arm speed.
• DA finishing: 2000–3200 OPM, light pressure, slower passes.
• Pad logic:

Wool/microfiber = fast cut, more haze.
Medium foam = refine & gloss.
Finishing foam = jeweling clarity.
Troubleshooting

• Haze after compounding: too aggressive pad or long cycles → drop one cut level or switch to foam; re-polish.
• Sticky wipe-off/streaks: too much product or hot panel → smaller sections, cool surface, fresh towels.
• DA “pigtails”: sanding disc clogged or pressure too high → clean/replace disc, lighten pressure, keep the interface pad.

Maintenance that preserves the mirror

• Weekly/biweekly wash: pH-neutral; dedicated coating-safe shampoo.
• Drying: blow + plush towel; use rinse aid to prevent spotting.
• Quarterly: decon spray and top-up sealant on high-wear areas (bow flare, waterline).
• Annually: single-step finishing polish (no cut) to refresh gloss, then re-topcoat if needed.
• Storage: use breathable covers; avoid sprinklers and constant shore-side dust.

Safety notes

• Edges, chines, and corners burn through first—tape and go gentle.
• Keep pads clean; swap often to avoid micro-marring.
• Ventilation + PPE at all times, especially with solvents and coatings.

Why yachtservice.me

• Factory-level correction: measured, edge-safe approach guided by paint depth.
• Show-car gloss: multi-stage jeweling and tight lighting control.
• Long-life protection: marine-grade ceramics tailored to your paint system.
• Upkeep plans: seasonal care that keeps the mirror going.

Want a true mirror finish with zero risk to your topcoat?
Book a paint inspection and demo correction with yachtservice.me, and we’ll map the safest path to flawless gloss on your hull and superstructure.